If you’d asked me a month ago what type of wine Burgundy is, I would have shrugged and said that I know it’s a region in France… but I wouldn’t have known what type of grapes make up White or Red Burgundies. Thanks to Highland Wine‘s recent classes, I’m more informed!

Yes, Burgundy is a region in France. As a European wine, they expect you to know about the region. The region determines the climate, the soil, and everything else that goes into the “terroir” and so with those conditions in mind, certain grape varieties will flourish better than others. So… Burgundy is generally one of two grapes: Pinot Noir for Red Burgundies and Chardonnay for White Burgundies. These two grapes are related and do really well in norther, cold weather climates. Also keep in mind that within the regions are many towns that have an even more specific terroir… so if you really want to familiarize yourself with Burgundies, you’ll need a really good map, lots of wine from different areas within Burgundy, luck on good vintages, and a huge attention to detail! Also, because the vineyards are owned by many different people, you still need to rely on knowing who the great winemakers are, not the vineyards they come from. Think of it as a big history/science experiment!

One thing to keep in mind is that for Burgundies, the wines must use 100% of either Pinot Noir or Chardonnay, unlike American and other New World wines, which must only use around 75% of the grape it’s labeled with. Just a thought if you’re comparing French and American Pinots… you’ll need to do your homework to make sure you find a 100% Pinot for a fair comparison.

In terms of organic or biodynamic wines, many of the Burgundian wineries take a biodynamic approach, but you will rarely find it on the label. I’m expecting that to change over time as those features become more important to the general population who is more concerned about how their food and drink are produced and are keeping a more concerned eye on sustainability.

During the tasting, we sampled 12 wines – four whites and eight reds. Price ranges stretch from $18-$91!

I’ll go into more details about the wines we tried below, but an overarching theme that’s come out of almost every tasting I’ve ever been to is this… price does not ensure that you will enjoy a wine. It still comes down to your personal preference about what flavors appeal to you! If you like fruit-dominant wines, then you still will not enjoy an earthy, mushroomy, forest-floor wine with a lot of tannins, even if the winemakers are extremely talented and go to great lengths to manually harvest their vineyards and then charge $100 for their bottle of wine. It comes down to what you like, even among wines made with the same grape. Tasting these wines side by side showed the huge differences that come from one grape. That difference comes from the terroir and the winemakers hand, and your judgment.

Okay, enough chat. Here’s what we tried, and how I felt about them (try them yourself though – you might feel differently! The folks at the wine class definitely differed in their opinions about each wine!).

WHITE BURGUNDIES

2007 Chehalem Inox Chardonnay

I like the winemakers’ style! NO OAK! If you like fresh, crisp whites – not buttery, oaky grossness… then go for this Chardonnay! The word “Inox” translates from French to “Stainless Steel.” This wine was light bodied and very enjoyable. Check out the Chehalem Winery’s website – it’s got some great information on their different vineyards, as well as their commitment to sustainability.

Origin: Dundee, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Price: $18
Next time: Get a glass!
Biodynamic

2007 Domaine Servin Chablis Premier Cru Butteaux (Chardonnay)

This Domaine Servin Chablis (Chardonnay) is imported by Peter Weygandt, whose name you should memorize. The wines he imports are known for their quality, and they come in a variety of price points. Just one of those things to look for if you’re trying to choose between two wines you’ve never had before. Because, let’s face it… there are too many French wineries for us to ever learn them all and they sure don’t help you out by putting any additional information on the back label. You’re just supposed to know, but of course we don’t… not at first anyway!

Another feature on the label to pick up on is the “Premier Cru” designation – meaning that this winery has been given the 2nd highest classification regarding quality. “Grand Cru” is the highest. Butteaux is the specific vineyard name within the town of Chablis.

This wine was also un-oaked, and is 100% Chardonnay. Was it the same as the Chehalem Inox above? NO WAY. They’re extremely different, pointing out that terroir makes a huge difference on how the grape comes through. This Chardonnay from the town of Chablis in Burgundy was much heavier bodied than the Inox. Personally, I liked the Chehalem better because of it’s lighter, crispier qualities. However, know that most of the Chablis Chards are un-oaked.

Origin: Butteaux Vineyard, Chablis, Burgundy, France
Importer: Peter Weygandt
Price: $30
Next time: I’ll pass.

2007 Moillard Domaine Greffet Pouilly-Fuisse (Chardonnay)

Unfortunately, at the time of writing this post, the Moillard website isn’t working, nor is the website of the owner, Vincent Sauvestre. To top it off, their importer, USA Wine Imports Inc. has absolutely no information. So you’re stuck with just my notes.

This Chardonnay from Pouilly-Fuisse is oaked. Compared to the previous two Chardonnays (un-oaked), it was heavier bodied with more acid. I’m not a big fan of oaky Chards, so it was an excellent experiment, but not something I’ll purchase to enjoy in the future.

Origin: Pouilly-Fuisse, Burgundy, France
Importer: USA Wine Imports
Price: $28
Next time: I’ll pass.
Biodynamic

2008 Domaine Raymond Dupont-Fahn Meursault “Les Tillets” (Chardonnay)

Of the four Chardonnays at the tasting, this Domaine Raymond Dupont-Fahn from the town of Meursault was the heaviest bodied, with the most acid. I did prefer this wine to the Moillard Domaine Greffet metioned above. Still, it was oaked, so I won’t be purchasing this one. But for oak lovers, I think you’ll like it… well, maybe not the price though.

Origin: Meursault, Burgundy, France
Importer: Peter Weygandt
Price: $49
Next time: I’ll pass.

RED BURGUNDIES (PINOT NOIR)

2007 Moillard Pinot Noir Tradition Burgundy (Pinot Noir)

This Moillard Pinot Noir had a lovely smell! Then flavors of fruit and earth hit your palate. Very tasty!

Origin: Burgundy, France
Importer: USA Wine Imports
Price: $20
Next time: Get a glass!
Biodynamic

2006 Moillard Chorey-les-Beaune Burgundy (Pinot Noir)

I wasn’t crazy about this Pinot Noir from Chorey-les-Beaune. It had a weird smell, and an odd taste to go with it. Someone at the tasting chimed in that it’s called “forest floor”… I’d describe it as a wet, earthy smell… like wet leaves that have started to congeal together in a really bad way. It didn’t appeal to me at all, but other people seemed to love this wine’s “forest floor” characteristic. To each his own!

Origin: Chorey les Beaune, Burgundy, France
Importer: USA Wine Imports
Price: $28
Next time: I’ll pass.
Biodynamic

2006 Moillard Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru Aux Clous Burgundy (Pinot Noir)

Compared to the Chorey-les-Beaune above, this Pinot from Savigny-les-Beaune was like a ray of sunshine. No moldy forest floor creeping in on my sunny picnic! Wonderful smell. Again, great balance of fruit and earth, but more intense than the Moillard Pinot Noir Tradition Burgundy. Bold, balanced, medium acid… very nice. Also, it’s from the quality-recognized Premier Cru (vineyard) of Aux Clous.

Origin: Aux Clous Vineyard, Savigny-les-Beaune, Burgundy, France
Importer: USA Wine Imports
Price: $42
Next time: Get a glass!
Biodynamic

2005 Domaine de Montille Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Aux Chorey (Pinot Noir)

Unfortunately, this Domaine de Montille from Nuits-Saint Georges was another “forest floor” wine. Despite the fact that 2005 was an excellent year for Burgundies and despite that this wine is classified as a Premier Cru, it just didn’t suit my taste. At least at $80 a bottle, I’m not going to be too upset about it!

Origin: Aux Chorey Vineyard, Nuits Saint Georges, Burgundy, France
Importer: Masciarelli Wine Co.
Price: $80
Next time: I’ll pass

2005 Domaine de Montille Pommard Premier Cru Les Pezerolles Burgundy

This Pinot Noir from Pommard was not as “forest floor”ish as the other Domaine de Montille from Nuits Saint Georges. However, it was more complex than the Moillard Savigny les Beaune that I enjoyed. I definitely enjoyed this wine.

Origin: Les Pezerolles Vineyard, Pommard, Burgundy, France
Importer: Masciarelli Wine Co.
Price: $91
Next time: Get a glass!

AMERICAN “BURGUNDIES”

2008 Walnut City Wineworks Pinot Noir

I had the 2007 Walnut City Wineworks Pinot Noir a while ago, and really didn’t like it. I rated it as an “I’ll pass.” Since then, I’m starting to change my tune on this wine, or at least learn more about it.

It’s sold by the bottle at local Atlanta pizza spot, Varasano’s, and it was pretty tasty the last time W and I were there with friends. No idea what the vintage was.

The 2008 from this tasting was great! Extremely different from the French Burgundies, in that it was extremely light, very fruit focused, and very low acid. If you’re not into tannins, then you should like this one. Otherwise, you’ll find it way too fruity.

Origin: Dundee, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Price: $20
Next time: Get a glass!
Biodynamic

2006 Molnar Family Poseidon’s Vineyard Pinot Noir

I’d had this wine before through Highland Wine’s monthly wine club. It is one of my top Pinot Noir faves! It’s heavy bodied, especially compared to the Walnut City Wineworks, and has more earthiness to it, which adds a nice complexity. See the original blog post for more info.

Origin: Carneros, Napa Valley, California
Price: $26
Next time: Get a case!

2006 Daedalus Labyrinth Pinot Noir

The Daedalus Labyrinth Pinot Noir was an interesting mix. It has some wonderful fruit flavors but also has a small amount of forest floor going in. It was lighter than the Molnar Pinot. Wine Enthusiast gave it a 90 point rating. I’d say I enjoyed it a lot but not enough to make it a new favorite. However, do take some time to explore their very informative website. Daedalus Cellars is a small family-owned and operated winery, and its name is an homage to one of the winemaker’s favorite authors, James Joyce, and displays this quote on the bottles:

“This race and this country and this life produced me, he said. I shall express myself as I am.”
Stephen Dedalus in Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man

Origin: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Price: $44
Next time: Get a glass!

Now that we’re a couple of months into 2010, I took a look back at the wines I tried in 2009 and present to you my list of Favorite Red Wines of 2009! Fave 2009 Whites coming soon!

• Pine & Post Cab Sauv – $9
• Simonnet-Febvre Pinot Noir – ~ $10
• Finca el Origen Malbec – $11
• Lucky Star Pinot Noir - $9
• Mark West Sonoma County Pinot Noir – $12
• Memo Montepulciano – $11
• Morande Pionero Pinot Noir – $10
• Spellbound Petite Syrah – $13
• Alexander Valley Vineyards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir – $?
• Angeline Russian River Valley Pinot Noir – $14
• Oyster Bay Pinot Noir – $15
• G5 Puerta Bonita Garnacha – $15
• Eos Estate Zinfandel and Petite Syrah – $15ish? and $16
• Bliss Cab Sauv – $15
• Chateau Fantin Bordeaux Superioeur – $16
• Big Fire Pinot Noir – $18
• Poppy Pinot Noir – $16
• Rivola Sardon de Duero Cab Sauv – $17
• Vina Robles Cav Sauv – ~ $18
• Le Signal Domaine Ligneres Carignan – $19
• Murphy-Goode Cab Sauv – $20
• Wirra Wirra Church Block Cab Sauv – $20
• Chateau Robin Cotes De Castillion – $22
• Louis M. Martini Cab Sauv – $15-$20
• L’Oustal Blanc Minervois – $21
• Twenty Rows Cab Sauv – $23
• Oberon Cab Sauv – $24
• Molnar Family Pinot Noir – $26
• Douglas Green Shiraz Reserve – $20ish?
• Obsidian Ridge Cab Sauv – $29
• Patricia Green Pinot Noir – $30
• Hartford Zinfandel – $30
• Chateau Rollan de By Medoc – $30
• Louis Latour Domaine de Valmoissine Pinot Noir – $??
• Anne Amie Pinot Noir – $??

You might remember from some previous posts that I’ve been exploring some new economically priced wines. Lucky Star Pinot Noir has been a winner. Leaping Horse Merlot… not so much. Pine & Post Cabernet Sauvignon, hailing from the Columbia Valley of Washington State is the latest experiment. Pine & Post is a Cab blend with 84% Cabernet Sauv, 10% Sangiovese, 3% Syrah, 3% Cabernet Franc — and it’s absolutely amazing! For under $10, this is an amazing value – stock up!

Origin: Washington
Where: Publix
Price: $9
Next time: Get a case!

Willamette, Oregon often delivers some fabulous wines, especially Pinots. Unfortunately, this one didn’t measure up, and neither did the dinner that went with it.

The wine seemed very light and watered down, and none of the flavors seemed fused together. It just didn’t deliver on flavor, texture, or balance.

Origin: Willamette, Oregon
Where: Smyrna WOB
Price: approx $20
Next time: I’ll pass.

Big Fire Pinot Noir

Since I first had this wine at Canoe about four years ago (my dad and I split a bottle about a year after I graduated from Emory!), this has been a personal favorite! Of course, I’m a sucker for the interesting mix of type faces on the label as well as the bold design. Usually, a great label design equals the worst wine imaginable — thankfully, not in this case.

http://www.rstuartandco.com/

This wine is simply delectable. Everything you’d want and expect from a pinot. Medium bodies and fruity complexity with depth. Very drinkable, not too acidic or too many tannins… very smooth.

Upon checking out their website, the wine lives up to their talk. One of their “house rules” is:

A little wood goes a long way. No need to mask great fruit with too much new oak.

Exactly.

In addition, they’re a fan of the screw cap. I know some people are traditionalists… However, it is SO NICE when you get ready for a glass of wine and you don’t have to go hunting for the wine opener. Or if you’re like me, I’ve broken three rabbit wine openers in the past three years and have finally switched back to the waiter’s variety (thanks to the generous folks over at Highland Wine & Crystal… more great info on them soon!). Or you’ve arranged for a fun, romantic picnic… but you forgot the wine opener! Or you finally get it open… and it’s corked. Needless to say the screwcap is practical from a wine health and integrity standpoint as well as ease of opening standpoint. How could you possibly go wrong? I’m hoping to see more wineries switch over to the screwcap as time progresses.

Origin: Yamhill Valley, Oregon

Where: Smyrna WOB, approx $16-$18

Next time: Get a case!

Erath Pinot Noir

Origin: Dundee, Oregon (Willamette)

“Grapes from the EARTH, wines from the HEART… ERATH.”

www.erath.com

Luscious aromas of ripe strawberries, vanilla, graham, and a sinful hint of caramel. Bright flavors of red currant, raspberry and orange peel.

I absolutely love the “Wine History” section from the winery’s wine notes online — this completely sums up what I love best about Pinot Noirs:

The ‘Oregon’ Pinot Noir is the cornerstone of the Earth wine portfolio. A blend of different vineyard sites from Oregon, this wine is a fruit forward, ready-to-drink style of Pinot Noir designed to highlight the varietal’s best characteristics. Our goal with this wine is simple – make the best Pinot Noir in the world for under $20.

Where: Smyrna WOB; $15.99

Unfortunately, after all my initial research about the wine, which made it sound so promising, the wine itself didn’t live up to my expectations. It wasn’t as light and refreshing as I was hoping, and it seemed to have a slight amount of mustiness and earthyness to it that just didn’t mesh well, in my opinion. Overall, it was “just okay” but I had certainly hoped for more.

Next time: I’ll pass.

Veramonte Reserva Pinot Noir

Origin: Casablanca Valley, Chile

Where: Smyrna WOB, $15.99 bottle

Tried this one last week — it was good, not spectacular. Spicier than I expected it would be for a Pinot.

Next time: I’ll pass.

A to Z Pinot Noir

Earlier this week, I enjoyed a fantastic dinner with family at Taverna Fiorentina in Vinings. The food was absolutely fabulous. However, I was not thrilled with any of the three Pinot Noir selections that we got… 2 by the glass and 1 by the bottle. I was most disappointed with the Siduri Pinot Noir, especially after spending $85 on the bottle. The other two, Peter Zemmer and A to Z , were reasonably priced by the glass but didn’t have any of the fruit-forward, punchy taste that I’ve come to expect in a Pinot. What a wine let-down.

Now I’m not looking forward to the bottle of A to Z that I had previously bought at Smyrna WOB. $18.99 bottle.

Next time: I’ll pass.

Tried a new Pinot tonight at Canoe for a very special occasion. The wine was perfect and everyone was thoroughly pleased with it. Chosen based on its origin from Oregon’s Willamette Valley, where I’ve had luck wth other wines and also its price by the bottle at a restaurant was reasonable for the quality of the wine. I was even more enthusiastic that the winery is an organic one.

Presenting…

Anne Amie Pinot Noir and their very cool blog.

Origin: Willamette Valley, Oregon

Patricia Green Reserve Pinot Noir

What an amazing wine… Retail about $30, unfortunately. Perfect with a nice dinner out.

Origin: Willamette Valley, Oregon

Next time: Special occasion!

Where: Wisteria, Rathbun Steak, Smyrna WOB